Climbing Tools

Snow in the States! - December 2010

2010-12-27T20:35:00.004Z

Over state side in New Jersey for a few weeks visiting family for Christmas and New Year. Elbow's still giving me jip so hoping being miles away from Scotland and the Lakes will take the ice conditions out of my mind!

A big snowstorm blew through last night leaving about 6" of snow here but much more further east and in the centre of New York. Ventured out today and it was freezing cold but lovely blue skies and sunny - too cold to go running though (what a shame!).

Mark Savage - Blog site!

2010-11-14T22:14:00.003Z

Mark Savage has finally got his blog site on line. Check it out for some fantastic shots of climbers on the rocks of Northumberland and updates on how his book on climbing in Northumberland is coming along.

Mark Savage Photography.

Injuries!!

2010-11-14T22:04:00.002Z

Back on the physio bench again :o(

Left elbow is back to its usual gammy state! Bit of a bugger as I'm pretty psyched on the climbing again after a bit of a low spell, so looks like I'm going to miss out on a bit of the winter bouldering and the start of the winter season. Already missed out on the majority of the Tooling comps north of the border but Steve Lynch is keeping up the side for the North East squad - 5 wins out of 5 so a cracking result! Check out the results so far on the Scottish Tooling website.

What's gone on for the rest of the year?!?

2010-11-14T21:44:00.003Z

Been really slack in not updating the blog site for ages!! What's gone on since the last installment:-

Skiing in Italy at Easter.

A little bit of rock climbing in the UK

Climbing trip to Mallorca October half term.

Steve has been getting out a fair bit, check out Mixed Picks for details.

Nathan's been on the injury bench for the last few months, hopefully back into training soon!

More updates on the way.........

Tooling at The Cove - Saturday 13th March

2010-03-15T10:47:00.003Z

Headed down to the cove for an early morning training session with Ali, Alan, Nathan and Lucie. It was a beautiful morning, nice in the sun but chilly in the shade!

Aimed for the normal area as the tide was on the turn and we didn't fancy getting trapped in the 'Burl Cave'. Good session but I was tired from the comp at Climb Newcastle the night before.

The Cove - Nathan Fires 'Warm-Up Traverse' from Andy Moir on Vimeo.

Alan pulling on the steep!

Ali on the 'Warm-Up' traverse

Skiing at Nevis Range - 6th & 7th March

2010-03-09T10:06:00.002Z

Decided on a weekend on the slopes as a change from the climbing. The conditions were great so it made sense to grab the conditions while they were there!

It was a weekend of two halves it terms of the weather, Saturday was hot and sunny while Sunday was cloudy and cold.

Ali on the sunny slopes!

The Lakes - 27th & 28th February

2010-03-09T08:49:00.016Z

Opted for a weekend of climbing in the lakes for a change as the conditions were so much better than Scotland.

On Saturday Nathan, Steve Lynch, Wilkie and I headed to Dove Crag to climb a route Steve had been wanting to tick for ages. Inaccessible Gully (V, 5) was there but in the warm sunshine it was really running! Steve and Wilkie set off first with Nathan and I following behind, dodging the lumps of ice.

The ice was pretty detached on the first section which made it exciting even on the 'blunt' end of the rope!! The second pitch gave great (and strenuous!!) mixed/tooling moves round the big chock stone. Fantastic route!

Inaccessible Gully

Steve Lynch on the detached ice on pitch 1

Sunday saw us heading to Dove Crag in Grassmoor, the aim was Dove Crag Gully (IV/V, 4). Nathan was climbing with Steve Hartland (AKA The Machine). Steve Lynch and I climbed with Steve Roberts from The Mountain Boot Company out for his first route of the season.

It was really busy with plenty of teams on and vying for the same route. Amazing ice and a great weekend out with the team!

The Machine on the first pitch

Steve Lynch on the steep ice of pitch 2

The Ben - 20th & 21st Februaury.

2010-03-09T08:09:00.006Z

Headed back up to the Ben again on a beautifully clear Saturday. It was a later start than planned due to a late arrival Friday night, so thought Waterfall Gully might be a feasible option as it was reported to be in condition.

As it turned out it wasn't in condition from what I could see so we had a pottering day on the CIC Ice Falls. It was really busy with climbers on most lines. Bumped in to a few friends on the ice today, Kev Shields who is still trying to recover from broken bone in his foot, and Gaz who was up from Manchester for a week in the hills.

Sunday ended up as a really steady day pottering down at Glenfinnan. It was another beautiful day, really wished we'd headed up to the ski area for the day. Next time maybe!

CIC Ice Fall

View down Loch Shiel

Creag Meagaidh - 14th February

2010-02-15T22:11:00.008Z

After the day on the Ben, Ali and I grabbed some dinner in the fort then headed round to Laggan to meet up with Kieron, Ross, Nathan and Steve at the hotel for a beer before heading to the car park and a semi comfy night sleeping in the car. Nathan and Steve were up and away for 6am, headed for Pumpkin. Check out Steve's blog 'Mixed Picks' for pics of their day! Kieron and Ross had a slightly later start and headed towards Staghorn again to climb the cascade on the left wall of the gully. Ali and I were tired from yesterday on the Ben and were pretty uninspired by the wet morning weather, so opted for a leisurely breakfast and steady walk to stretch out those aching legs!

Breakfast time!

Strange lichens on the trees in the woods of Creag Meagaidh

Ben Nevis - 13th February

2010-02-15T21:44:00.006Z

A semi early start saw Ali and I setting off from the north face car park at 7.30am in crisp conditions. An hour and a half later and we were having a brew at the CIC eying up the days objective. We opted for Comb Gully and set off following a string of climbers heading towards number three gully buttress (and ultimately Comb!). The queue in the gully led us to continue up Number Two to have a look at Comb Gully Buttress but the snow condition dictated continuing up Number Two and topping out on the plateau into a freezing wind via an unconsolidated cornice exit. Half the descent was in thick cloud cover, finally clearing at the bottom of the red burn.

View up to Number Three Gully Buttress

Ice formations in Number Two Gully

Ali topping out!

Tooling at the Cove - 6th February

2010-02-07T20:51:00.005Z

Went for a quick tooling session at the cove with Nathan on Saturday afternoon in leu of any winter action. It was a rude awakening back on the axes after quite a while away from the cove!

We started at the standard traverse for a warm up then headed over to the burl cave for a couple of burns on the problems there. Will have to get some gas lanterns so I can keep up the training through the week.

Check out Nathan in action!

Nathan Tooling at the Cove from Andy Moir on Vimeo.

Nathan on another 'Burl' problem from Andy Moir on Vimeo.

Creag Meagaidh - 31st January

2010-02-07T20:00:00.007Z

Headed up north on the Saturday evening with Kieron, Ross and Ali after Ross had finished work. Stopped over night in Newtonmore so we would be close to the mountain for the following day.

Things were a lot slower to get going on the Sunday as breakfast wasn't until 7.30am which left us a little behind schedule!!

Walked in to Meagaidh in a cold wind but relatively clear skies. Kieron and Ross were aiming for Staghorn Gully while Ali and I were going to try South Pipe Direct. As we got closer the views of the fat ice on Last Post were amazing. We all decided to climb Staghorn due to the time and the other climbers on and below most of the other routes!

The climbing was great, if a little tiring on the calves, with two brilliant pitches in the upper gully. We topped out on to the plateau into a really strong, biting wind and with the clouds threatening to close right in we set off down to the window and back to the car as the snow started to fall.

We finally got to the car park at 7pm and started the long trip back down the road!

Fat ice on the lower pitches of Last Post

Ali mid way up Staghorn Gully

A qiuck cuppa at the bottom of the window on the way out

Lakes in Winter! 9th & 10th December

2010-01-12T23:10:00.009Z

Decided to head to the lakes for the weekend as the reports of the conditions were very good. Set off on the Saturday morning to Kieron's over at Carlisle. The journey over took much longer due to the snowy conditions so the venue was Borrowdale and the very frozen Sour Milk Gill. Had a great few hours in very alpine temps and conditions!

Blencathra in a wintery coat!

Kieron on the ice of Sour Milk Gill.

Kieron on Sour Milk Gill from Andy Moir on Vimeo.

Sunday we headed back down to Borrowdale with Ross, aiming for Raven Crag Gulley. The day was very different weather wise from Saturday, blowing really strong gusty wind with lots of wind blown snow and spin drift. The route turned out to be very busy with two teams on the route and another two waiting at the base. With this in mind and the want and need to keep moving, we headed further left towards Corvus as an option or some ice further left. In the end we opted for the ice sheets over left as Corvus was looking very lean. All in all it was a great day out and a great weekend, good to be back on the axes!

Ross nearing the top of the first ice sheet.

Kyloe In The Woods - 20th December 2009

2009-12-20T20:50:00.008Z

Decided at 6.10am that it was a bit too snowy & icy to head over to the lakes as planned so opted for a later start and a look up the woods.

It was certainly still cold and snowy on the side roads as we got to the parking spot. Quite a few cars were parked up so we expected the crag to be fairly busy but we were surprised to find only 3 people on the rock, the other cars being from folk out with their dogs.

Another pair turned up just after we got there, giving a total of 7 climbers. Unusual as it was certainly cold but dry and perfect friction!!

Managed a few of the classics before soft skin and numb toes got the better of me!

Swan Wall Direct

Pink Gin

Red Rum sit start

The Elf Direct

Bad Finger

Bad Company

Monty Python

Ali managed a longstanding project in Bad Finger, then got on to Bad Company and made good progress before the cold stopped play!

Paul and Joanne were working the moves of Cubbys then moved on for a quick burn on Monty Python before heading back. Paul was very close and will get the tick next visit I'm sure.

This way to the crags!!

Perfect conditions.

Scottish Tooling Series - Kinlochleven, Saturday 5th December

2009-12-13T10:42:00.005Z

Traveled up for the last round of the Tooling series at Kinlochleven. Nathan and Stave (Lynch) were in with a shout for another podium spot, Scott and Steve (Wilkinson) were psyched to do well, where as Ali and I were going along for the 'see how it pans out' session.

The problems were great (the ones I actually got on!!) but I was taking it much slower than the others as it was the first proper go back on the tools for over 4 months.

In the end Nathan finished in 12th, Scott in 18th and Steve W and I were in 21st. In the Vets Steve L bagged 2nd and in the Women's Ali got a 4th place in her first go at these comps!

This left the boys with the overall results of:-

Nathan 2nd and Steve W 13th. Steve L 2nd in the Vets.

Check out Steve Lynch styling the problem!!

Steve at The Ice Factor from Andy Moir on Vimeo.

Hungchi Trip - Link

2009-12-12T22:15:00.006Z

It's been over a month since I got back from Nepal and it seems like a distant memory with getting straight back into the swing of work!

Will put more photos on the Hungchi blog as soon as I get the time:

www.hungchi2009.blogspot.com

View of Hungchi across the Ngozumpa Glacier.

October 2009 - Hungchi 7030m

2009-06-05T23:04:00.003+01:00

The trip is on! Flights are booked and the itinery sorted. Now all that's needed is the fitness.

More details to follow shortly.

The Rest of 2009 - so far

2009-06-05T22:49:00.003+01:00

Lots of climbing weekends have been had since the last time the blog was updated, work's been getting in the way of the write ups!!

The winter season finished a little premature but still managed to get up the Ben a few times with Nathan, Steve Lynch, Steve Hartland and Ali on the last trip. Got Smith's, Comb, Green, etc climbed before a quick sun rock trip to Costa Blanca.

Since then there's been a couple of trips to North Wales and numerous Lakeland escapades! Nathan and I have also discovered a new tooling grotto down near the cove. This is a great tool bouldering area where 'burly' is the name of the game! Photos to follow.

Pinnacle Ridge, St Sunday Crags - 22nd Feb 2009

2009-03-16T20:05:00.007Z

Had a trip over to the lakes for a scramble on Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday Crags as most of the snow had started to disappear and what was left looked very unstable. Collected Kieron on the way down to Glen ridding car park for the meet up. Steve, Martin, Chris and Tony were already waiting so we headed further up the valley to park then headed for the scramble.

The weather looked good, nice sunny spells but there was a cold strong wind blowing as we got further up the valley. Overall a great day out with a good bunch. Need to do more of this!

Steve getting to grips with the ridge.

Ali taking a quick break!

Third Day On - 21st Feb 2009

2009-02-21T22:47:00.003Z

Early start for the third day on to get down to the cove for low tide. This had to be a steady session as the arms were feeling it after the previous two days.

Ali was feeling it too and the warm ups were slow and creaky!

Once I got into the swing the session was more laps on the standard traverse and the low traverse. Need to get more time to train I recon!

Ali was pulling well, making big links through to the drop down.

Ali moving towards the Fig 4

Comp Night - 20th Feb 2009

2009-02-21T22:38:00.002Z

Wasn't sure that a comp was what i wanted to be doing as my second night on. Went down with a view to having an easy session on the comp problems which worked out well.

Ticked around 22 or 23 of the problems first go but stopped before the end as i was getting too tired.

Ali climbed well again, resulting in a first place in her category again!

Stayed for the prize handout which was good crack, the Climb Newcastle boys put on a good series. I just need to train a bit harder for next seasons rounds.

Climb Newcastle - 19th Feb 2009

2009-02-21T22:32:00.002Z

First trip to the wall for a while. Went down with Nathan and Ali for a quick session after a busy week at work. Just needed to get the body working again!

Had an OK couple of hours on the new pink circuit. Ali and Nathan were both climbing well.

Finished off with nice hot choccy!!

Crispy temps - 10th Feb 2009.

2009-02-13T20:13:00.001Z

Travelled up to Glenshee last night for a work thing! The day dawned with clear skies and sunshine, -8 on the car's thermometer. Later on I headed round for the west side and Kinlochleven, more work! Passing Laggan and on towards Loch Laggan the temps reached -11. Shame the camera was nice and warm at home!! Looking into Creag Meagaidh from a distance, the conditions were looking good. Might have to get in there soon.

Too much snow!! - 7th Feb 2009.

2009-02-13T20:09:00.001Z

Travelled up to Aviemore on the Friday night with Kieron & Steve hoping for a steady Saturday in the Northern Corries but the weather had other plans! The snow started falling about an hour or so south of Aviemore, continuing all the way there and through the night. After a slightly slower start than planned we were semi up and at it to be told the road up to the car park was closed with no specific opening time. Drastic action was required so we headed into town for a big breakfast.

By lunch time the road still wasn't open so we got back in the car, tail between our legs, pointed it south and headed for home. A long way to go for a couple of beers and a big breakfast!

Freezing at the Cove! - 31st Jan 2009

2009-01-31T20:45:00.005Z

Decided to head down to the cove for a steady tooling session by myself even though it was really windy and pretty damn cold!

Felt lousy warming up but seemed to get more into it as the session progressed. Ended up doing 3 laps on the traverse with 15 mins rest between burns. After a tea break I managed 3 laps on the half version of the low level traverse with similar rests before the cold was getting the better of me and a hot coffee in town beckoned!!

The Boys are off to France - Jan/Feb 2009

2009-01-23T23:31:00.002Z

Steve and Nathan leave for France tomorrow, two weeks of ice action await! Tales and photos of the trip to follow...............

Tooling Action - 18th Jan 2009

2009-01-23T23:06:00.003Z

Back from the ice and straight down the cove for some tooling action with the Squad - Nathan, Steve 'The Machine', Ali and Lucy.

Was feeling tired from the week away and the journey back the day before so wasn't expecting great things. After a quick warm up I got on the standard traverse which was completed with out too much of a struggle, well, a fair struggle! Steve was keeping it steady so as not to 'tweak' his shoulder ahead of the ice trip with Nathan. The Girls were getting stuck in, Lucy getting to grips with the initial moves again while Ali was pushing past the Fig 4 move which was the stopped from last time. Nathan was working hard too, this being the last session on the tools before the French trip.

After another brew stop I worked the moves on the low traverse which was still needing the full link tick. Another brew and it was time for action, the initial moves through the standard traverse felt sketchy (again!). A quick shake after the drop down moves and it was off into the land of 'mega pump', the moves flowed and eventually (and thankfully!) the finishing moves arrived. The two traverses feel about similar in terms of difficulty but the low version is more sustained.

Two days rest for me now!

The rest of the squad worked some moves for a short while longer then it was time for the off and a warm up!

Euro Ice - 9th to 16th Jan 2009

2009-01-23T21:51:00.007Z

The time had come to get some Euro ice action in! Ali and I got flights to Geneva with a view of seeing what goes as the snow had been plentiful to say the least. If all else failed, at least there'd be skiing to be had.

First call was Chamonix to catch up with a couple of friends who'd recently moved over. After a catch up and an early dinner, we decided on Cogne for a few days then review the situation.

As it turned out the conditions were great, blue skies and sunshine though there was still a lot of snow around.

Routes climbed included:-

Cascade de Lillaz - II 3. (Good conditions)

Lauson - II 3. (Quite thin in places)

E Tutto Relativo - II 4. (First pitch well banked out with snow. Scottish conditions on last pitch!)

Cold Couloir - III 4+. (First pitch only, looked 'interesting' above due to snow conditions)

Patri de Gauche - II 4.

Valmiana - II 3. (Brittle first pitch)

Ali on the second pitch of Cascade de Lillaz.

Pattinaggio Artistico Direct II 5+ (Right) X Files M10 (Left - with the ice touching down!)

First pitch of Patri de Gauche.

Climbers on the first pitch of Stella Artice.

More Tooling - 3rd Jan 2009

2009-01-03T21:35:00.007Z

Today was looking like a good day early on, nice bit of sun with very little wind and an early afternoon low tide. Headed down to the cove with Nathan and Ali for another work out.

After a quick warm up I hopped on the 'traverse' and wobbled through to the finish. Nathan jumped on next and was cruising through until a foot 'pop' pulled him of balance and off the route. Not having climbed for over a week combined with a 'party New Year' wasn't slowing him down any! While the boys rested the 'pump', Ali got on and steadied through to the 'fig 4' move where her memory for moves (laughing!) kicked in and she was off.

A warming tea break and the squad were back on the tools. Ali got back on the 'fig 4' move and fired through the drop down into the slot, setting up for the long pop she ended up flat on her back on the beach. A large lump, formerly the slot, was lying beside. Luckily there was no real harm done, other than what will be a big bruise to the knee! This altered the route slightly as this was the demise of a fairly important hold, however, the challenge was now on for the ascent in it's new state!

I was first up. Being shorter in arm than Nathan I found the new sequence very reachy but sketched through to the last arete drop down before the pump got the better of me (slight annoyance!!). Nathan pulled it out of the bag and powered through, even using a 'non sequence' which actually seemed to suit him better, styling to the finish. Ali worked the moves some more before the call of the warm car became too strong.

Another good day had by the squad. Last training on the tools before Italy.

Ali cruising the starting moves.

Nathan powering through!

Feeling the burn (again!) on the Low Traverse.

Friday Night Bouldering - 2nd Jan 2009

2009-01-03T21:29:00.002Z

After a day of rest on Thursday, the venue for training was Eldon Wall with Ali and Emma. I was opting for a quick stamina session while the girls went for a finger work out on some problems.

Two laps on the 'pockets traverse' with a 10 minute rest between was enough for me. The girls worked on 5 problems before it was time to call it a night.

Tooling Action - 31st Dec 2008

2009-01-01T00:02:00.006Z

Another cold (very cold!) overcast day. Air temperature was showing -2C but still headed for some tooling training. Eventually got warmed up with some short 'up' problems and copious amounts of flask tea. Ali worked bigger overlaps of the traverse, making major improvements through the 'figure 4' section. I completed one lap on the traverse then some low and very low variations.

Starting to feel the burn!

Fig 4!!

Shaftoe Bouldering - 30th Dec 2008

2008-12-31T23:16:00.001Z

It was the last chance of the year for some bouldering action, after the aborted mission of the previous Sunday!! Decided to try for a 'short session' at Shaftoe. The day felt cold and damp but at least it wasn't raining. Ali (aka The Doc) and I met up with the rest of the squad at the crag, the walk in had been wet and muddy so I wasn't convinced this was going to be worth it. After eventually getting over the screaming hot aches we all got down to some semi hard pullin'! The 'short session' lasted over four hours, the numb toes much longer!!

Ali pulling those slopers!

Jimmy 'tongue-ing' for glory.

Broon 'in the mix'

Sunday at the Wall

2008-12-29T17:56:00.001Z

After a hopeful start the rain caught up with us and the planned Shaftoe session was hastily changed to a quickie at Climb Newcastle. Finished off all but two problems of the new blue circuit (brilliant range of problems) which was quite pleasing. Looking forward to getting out on the rock (or the ice) over the next few days, weather permitting!!