Monday, 15 February 2010

Ben Nevis - 13th February

A semi early start saw Ali and I setting off from the north face car park at 7.30am in crisp conditions. An hour and a half later and we were having a brew at the CIC eying up the days objective. We opted for Comb Gully and set off following a string of climbers heading towards number three gully buttress (and ultimately Comb!). The queue in the gully led us to continue up Number Two to have a look at Comb Gully Buttress but the snow condition dictated continuing up Number Two and topping out on the plateau into a freezing wind via an unconsolidated cornice exit. Half the descent was in thick cloud cover, finally clearing at the bottom of the red burn.

View up to Number Three Gully Buttress

Ice formations in Number Two Gully

Ali topping out!

Sunday, 7 February 2010

Tooling at the Cove - 6th February

Went for a quick tooling session at the cove with Nathan on Saturday afternoon in leu of any winter action. It was a rude awakening back on the axes after quite a while away from the cove!
We started at the standard traverse for a warm up then headed over to the burl cave for a couple of burns on the problems there. Will have to get some gas lanterns so I can keep up the training through the week.

Check out Nathan in action!

Nathan Tooling at the Cove from Andy Moir on Vimeo.


Nathan on another 'Burl' problem from Andy Moir on Vimeo.

Creag Meagaidh - 31st January

Headed up north on the Saturday evening with Kieron, Ross and Ali after Ross had finished work. Stopped over night in Newtonmore so we would be close to the mountain for the following day.
Things were a lot slower to get going on the Sunday as breakfast wasn't until 7.30am which left us a little behind schedule!!
Walked in to Meagaidh in a cold wind but relatively clear skies. Kieron and Ross were aiming for Staghorn Gully while Ali and I were going to try South Pipe Direct. As we got closer the views of the fat ice on Last Post were amazing. We all decided to climb Staghorn due to the time and the other climbers on and below most of the other routes!
The climbing was great, if a little tiring on the calves, with two brilliant pitches in the upper gully. We topped out on to the plateau into a really strong, biting wind and with the clouds threatening to close right in we set off down to the window and back to the car as the snow started to fall.
We finally got to the car park at 7pm and started the long trip back down the road!

Fat ice on the lower pitches of Last Post

Ali mid way up Staghorn Gully

A qiuck cuppa at the bottom of the window on the way out

Tuesday, 12 January 2010

Lakes in Winter! 9th & 10th December

Decided to head to the lakes for the weekend as the reports of the conditions were very good. Set off on the Saturday morning to Kieron's over at Carlisle. The journey over took much longer due to the snowy conditions so the venue was Borrowdale and the very frozen Sour Milk Gill. Had a great few hours in very alpine temps and conditions!

Blencathra in a wintery coat!

Kieron on the ice of Sour Milk Gill.

Kieron on Sour Milk Gill from Andy Moir on Vimeo.

Sunday we headed back down to Borrowdale with Ross, aiming for Raven Crag Gulley. The day was very different weather wise from Saturday, blowing really strong gusty wind with lots of wind blown snow and spin drift. The route turned out to be very busy with two teams on the route and another two waiting at the base. With this in mind and the want and need to keep moving, we headed further left towards Corvus as an option or some ice further left. In the end we opted for the ice sheets over left as Corvus was looking very lean. All in all it was a great day out and a great weekend, good to be back on the axes!

Ross nearing the top of the first ice sheet.

Sunday, 20 December 2009

Kyloe In The Woods - 20th December 2009

Decided at 6.10am that it was a bit too snowy & icy to head over to the lakes as planned so opted for a later start and a look up the woods.
It was certainly still cold and snowy on the side roads as we got to the parking spot. Quite a few cars were parked up so we expected the crag to be fairly busy but we were surprised to find only 3 people on the rock, the other cars being from folk out with their dogs.
Another pair turned up just after we got there, giving a total of 7 climbers. Unusual as it was certainly cold but dry and perfect friction!!

Managed a few of the classics before soft skin and numb toes got the better of me!
Swan Wall Direct
Pink Gin
Red Rum sit start
The Elf Direct
Bad Finger
Bad Company
Monty Python

Ali managed a longstanding project in Bad Finger, then got on to Bad Company and made good progress before the cold stopped play!
Paul and Joanne were working the moves of Cubbys then moved on for a quick burn on Monty Python before heading back. Paul was very close and will get the tick next visit I'm sure.

This way to the crags!!

Perfect conditions.

Sunday, 13 December 2009

Scottish Tooling Series - Kinlochleven, Saturday 5th December

Traveled up for the last round of the Tooling series at Kinlochleven. Nathan and Stave (Lynch) were in with a shout for another podium spot, Scott and Steve (Wilkinson) were psyched to do well, where as Ali and I were going along for the 'see how it pans out' session.
The problems were great (the ones I actually got on!!) but I was taking it much slower than the others as it was the first proper go back on the tools for over 4 months.
In the end Nathan finished in 12th, Scott in 18th and Steve W and I were in 21st. In the Vets Steve L bagged 2nd and in the Women's Ali got a 4th place in her first go at these comps!
This left the boys with the overall results of:-
Nathan 2nd and Steve W 13th. Steve L 2nd in the Vets.

Check out Steve Lynch styling the problem!!

Saturday, 12 December 2009

Hungchi Trip - Link

It's been over a month since I got back from Nepal and it seems like a distant memory with getting straight back into the swing of work!

Will put more photos on the Hungchi blog as soon as I get the time:

View of Hungchi across the Ngozumpa Glacier.